Welcome to a new series in which we delve into the McJimsey Body Types or Style Essences. Please note that while I do my best to stick to the original ideas, I cannot help but perform interpretations as I try to expand on these concepts.

McJimsey Style Essences and Yin/Yang Concepts

Author and stylist Harriet McJimsey described various essences based on Yin/Yang concepts in her book “Art and Fashion in Clothing Selection” (1973). She broke down the Yin/Yang spectrum into the 6 “archetypes” which she called Dramatic, Natural Yang (Athletic), Classic, Romantic, Gamin, and Ingenue.

McJimsey emphasized the importance of considering not only physical attributes, but expressive qualities like mannerisms, persona, and voice when creating the most authentic expression in clothing and costuming. One’s build, scaling, and posture influenced the general outline or silhouette the most heavily. Facial characteristics depend most on necklines and details around the face to blossom. Personal coloring had to be used strategically to create certain effects that aligned with these archetypes, and other nuances like voice, expressions, and mannerism modified the overall look look as well.

In this post, I will focus on the most Yang type, the Dramatic, and the resonant details that extend this type of beauty.

Yang vs Yin Essences

To help make visual and visceral the extreme Yang of the Yin/Yang spectrum, McJimsey listed the following subjects as being very Yang: lions, eagles, oak trees, the painting “American Gothic” and Calla lilies. These subjects all represent strength, dynamic force, royalty, reserve, and sturdiness. They also possess an abundance of strong, continuous lines, angularity, and solid spans of color.

To help clarify further, contrast the Yang subjects with the Yin subjects. Yin subjects like “Child in White” by Renoir, Lily of the Valley blossoms, deer, hummingbirds, and wispy willow trees look very different and evoke very different emotions compared to the Yang subjects.

Notice how much more delicate and diffuse the Yin subjects are compared to the strength and solid boundaries of the Yang counterparts. Again, both the visual and visceral effects must be noted and honored.

Physical Traits of the Dramatic Essence

Because McJimsey’s system focuses on much more nuanced humans, below are the physical traits she considered as being quite Yang. Dramatic Essence beauties include Barbara Streisand, Joan Crawford, Maria Callas, Joan Baez, Lauren Bacall, and Linda Bird Johnson.

Dramatic Essence Elements and Silhouette

The Dramatic beauty can be embraced with a long, unbroken silhouette that veers towards whatever is high fashion at the time. Tight or heavy shapes especially in skirts, diagonal drapes, Dolman sleeves in all their angularity and geometry, high collars that emphasize the long neck, and heavy collars that behave almost like a regal cape in front are some of the shapes that can be integrated into the silhouette.

The overall momentum for the Dramatic features straightness, angularity, flat curves, and vertical, diagonal, and downward emphasis to exaggerate the heaviness they can pull off so well. The Dramatic is not easily overwhelmed, and to highlight their strength it is necessary to represent what they can stand up to so effortlessly.

Details are best kept large and lesser in number to make the boldest statement. McJimsey noted that details are best kept below the waist, which works well for that downward emphasis.

The best textures for the Dramatic Essence are either heavy, rough, and stiff in order to hold shape and sculpted-ness, or very thin and easily elongated like crepes, silks, and satins. Overall, the fabric is best kept luxuriant and sumptuous.

As for the visual rhythm of the outfit, which pertains more to detail placement, there are two strategies. The Dramatic can either wear details (or lack thereof) in a continuous and flowing manner, or in an evenly spaced manner akin to scaling or regularly placed units that only emphasize their length.

Specific Garments for the Dramatic

More specifically, the Dramatic Essence can be celebrated with the use of very angular collars, sleek stand up collars, calculated and elongated volumes, and diagonal and vertical draping. Tunic and trapeze silhouettes, sleek silk draped dresses, large heavy shawl collars, and sleek pumps are also great.

Accessories for the Dramatic Essence

The Dramatic looks so regal in these accessories- the fur cap and wide fedoras act almost like a crown. The long gloves look so luxuriant and exaggerate the length of their limbs, and the large jewelry makes a bold statement that never overwhelms.

I will outline more modern examples of looks and beauty that I think falls into the Dramatic Essence in the future.

xx

Nona